À bout de souffle, 1960
air, water, earth
earth, water, air
"The sea, until she nears her limits, is a simple thing, repeating herself wave by wave. But you cannot approach the simplest things in nature without a good many formalities, the thickest things without a bit of thinning out. This -and also because he resents their oppressive immensity- is why man rushes to the edges or intersections of the great things he wishes to define. For reason, plunged in the bosom of uniformity, gets perilously tossed about and runs into short supply: a mind in search of concepts must, to begin with, lay in a stock of appearances."
-Francis Ponge, Bords de mer
Dad and friends on surf safari from Oregon down the California coast.
Book/Memory #1 (Libro de mi infancia)
I remember loving this book the moment it was given to me. I remember reading the first few chapters countless of times but never being able to get to the end. I remember carrying this copy with me for a whole summer, maybe more, probably more for the looks of it, I handled it enough times to unhinge its spine. I remember wanting to be Mowgli.
♥ your blog!